Double breasted vs single breasted: When to choose which?

Are you hesitant to invest in a suit or tuxedo because it appears too formal? Then fret no more. Nowadays, you can wear a stylish suit jacket and mix and match it with a casual t-shirt or jeans to add a touch of sophistication to your style. 

But, before you start shopping, familiarising yourself with the different suit jacket styles, double-breasted vs single-breasted, is vital. This way, you’ll know which to wear best on various occasions and events.

What is a double breasted suit? 

Tailor measuring a navy pinstripe double-breasted suit. (Source: iStock)

A double-breasted suit comes with a jacket or blazer that features overlapping front lapels or folded flaps and two parallel columns of buttons. It appears formal and authoritative because it’s often made from wool, tweed, and other structured fabrics that were manufactured to keep a specific shape or texture.

Double-breasted suits originated in the 1900s but rose in popularity mainly during the 1980s, when people began associating this design with power dressing. Iconic figures like Prince Charles III and music icon David Bowie also loved to wear double-breasted suits.

It was also around this time that the James Bond series became prominent in pop culture. As Agent Double 007, James Bond is often seen wearing long, broad, and loose double-breasted suits with large shoulder pads, forming a powerful silhouette. 

However, today, many tailors and seamstresses create a more flattering design to make double-breasted suits more fashionable and versatile for both formal and casual wear. The suit jacket has a narrower waist with softer shoulder pads and higher armholes to allow the wearer to lift their arms without the whole jacket moving up with their arms.

What is a single breasted suit? 

Tailor inspecting a single-breasted gray suit. (Source: iStock)

A single-breasted suit features a jacket or blazer coat with one column of buttons and front lapels that overlap only narrowly, meeting at the middle of the jacket. Although rare in European countries due to the long-standing tradition of tailoring well-crafted double-breasted suits, single-breasted suits soon became a popular alternative because of their simple and minimalist design.

Single-breasted blazers became popular in the 1920s when jazz culture flourished, and many young people embraced more relaxed clothing. These suits also became a staple choice during World War II because there was fabric and clothes rationing at that time, making it difficult for tailors to produce double-breasted suits. 

The style of today’s single-breasted suits has not changed much since they are considered timeless classics. One slight change is that the single-breasted blazers are slimmer or more tailored fit, flattering to any body type. 

Single vs double breasted suit: When should you choose one over the other?

Still unsure which type of suit to choose? Knowing the difference between a single vs. double-breasted suit is the key to pick the perfect jacket style. 

In terms of button configuration

Close-up image of a pinstripe double-breasted suit with button detail. (Source: iStock)

A double-breasted suit has a more complex button configuration than a single-breasted suit because it uses more decorative buttons. Some of their button variations include:

• A 4 x 2 button configuration with a total of four buttons. Two are functional, while others are decorative for a sleek and modern look. 

• A 6 x 2 button configuration with a total of six buttons. Two buttons are functional, like a 4 x 2 double-breasted suit, while the rest are decorative. The buttons form a Y-shaped pattern with the two of the top buttons placed higher to emphasise the chest and create a slimming effect.

• A 4 x 1 or 6 x 1 button configuration with four or six buttons in total, but only one is functional. The functional button is also placed lower to make the inner shirt and tie more noticeable. 

Single-breasted suits also come with various button configurations, but their design focuses more on creating a clean closure with functional buttons at the centre of the suit jacket. Some of the popular button variations for single-breasted suits include:

• A one-button configuration suit with a single functional button for a formal and minimalist look.

• A two-button configuration suit with two functional buttons, but only one can be fastened, allowing the suit jacket to drape naturally, creating a smooth and clean silhouette.

• A three-button configuration suit with three functional buttons, but only two of the top buttons can be fastened. This is suitable for taller people since it makes the front of the suit jacket longer. 

In terms of lapel style

Double-breasted suit jackets have peak lapels, while single-breasted suits have notch lapels. 

A peak lapel has a more dramatic design, with the folded flaps pointing toward the shoulders, creating an illusion of broader shoulders. 

On the other hand, notch lapels appear more casual with a distinct V-shaped cut. Imagine the top part of the suit jacket’s folded flaps and the bottom part of the collar meets in a 'notch' to create a V-shaped cut — that’s a notch lapel. Some modern double-breasted suits feature notch lapels, but they’re more common in single-breasted suits. 

Other single-breasted suits also feature shawl lapels with smooth, rounded edges. These lapels are often made from luxurious fabrics like satin or grosgrain, adding a touch of elegance to suits. You’ll often see them in formal evening wear like tuxedos. 

In terms of silhouette

A tailor helping a man fit a single-breasted blue suit with a sleek silhouette. (Source: iStock)

Since double-breasted suits use more buttons, their jackets appear longer than single-breasted suits, creating a tall and elongated silhouette. Double breasted jackets also draw more attention to the chest area because it has a cinched, narrow waist with the front lapels overlapping, further accentuating the 'V' shape in front of the suit jacket. This produces a more structured and wider chest silhouette. 

Meanwhile, single-breasted suits offer a more minimalistic silhouette since they typically feature a single column of buttons, creating a clean, vertical line to emphasise height and slimness. Their suit jacket also has a shorter length and straighter fit than double-breasted suits, offering a more balanced silhouette. 

In terms of formality

If we look into their historical roots, double-breasted suits are often used for formal wear, and bankers, attorneys, and military personnel use this type of suit style for their uniforms. But beyond history, double-breasted suits still appear more formal because of the overlapping lapels and complex button configurations. 

Moreover, a double-breasted suit often features jetted pockets. Out of all the pocket suit styles, a jetted pocket is the most formal because it doesn’t look conspicuous, with only a slim slit visible in front of the suit jacket. This makes the suit appear sleeker and more streamlined, which is common in formal clothes. 

Some modern double-breasted jackets are made from bold fabrics with decorative patch pockets, but they usually still have a more formal edge than single-breasted suits. 

Although you may also wear single-breasted suits for formal occasions, their designs are more straightforward and generate a more casual look. They only feature one to three buttons, and their lapels don’t overlap as much as those of double-breasted suits. Due to its simple appearance, a single-breasted suit is a versatile piece of clothing ideal for a wide range of casual or formal events. 

In terms of style flexibility

A man buttoning a burgundy single-breasted suit. (Source: iStock)

Since a single-breasted suit has a more versatile design, it offers more style flexibility than a double-breasted suit. You can wear it with jeans, chinos, or khakis for a more casual look. Feel free to mix and match them with different dress shirts and ties since single-breasted suits can match well with bright and statement fabrics. 

Moreover, single-breasted suits are suitable for most body types. They have a more relaxed fit than a double-breasted suit, so they’re more comfortable to wear and easy to style. 

On the other hand, double-breasted suits have a more limited fit. They usually look flattering only for people with medium to large builds because the suit jacket is designed to enhance the chest and shoulders. A traditional double-breasted suit could look unproportioned or awkwardly bulky if someone with a more petite build wears one. 

Despite being less versatile, double-breasted suits have undergone numerous transformations, embracing varying modern fashion trends. Today, you can use a double-breasted suit for less formal occasions if you can style them right. 

So, how do you wear a double-breasted suit? You can pair it with a turtleneck or a casual t-shirt for a semi-formal look. Consider also pairing it with a pinstripe dress shirt to further enhance the suit’s slimming effect. Just make sure not to use too many accessories since the suit itself already serves as a statement piece!

In terms of tailoring and alterations

To manage your expectations, the general cost of suit alterations is expensive, ranging from £5 to £60. However,  the prices for altering a suit can vary widely.

Between a double-breasted suit and a single-breasted suit, the latter is more expensive because the overlapping front lapels require more layers, and they need more precise measurements to ensure a proper fit. Moreover, modern double-breasted suits have higher armholes, requiring advanced tailoring skills. 

In contrast, single-breasted suits have a simpler button configuration and feature notched lapels. Since notched lapels have a simpler design than peak lapels (common in double-breasted suits), altering them is much easier and less expensive. 

As for other alteration services, such as adjusting the shoulders, jacket length, and overall size, single-breasted suits are still less complex and more affordable than double-breasted suits. 

Get your suit fitted perfectly with Airtasker 

Even if you’ve bought a high-quality double breasted or single breasted suit from a renowned brand, it still needs adjustments for a better fit. Why not upgrade your suit and take it to a tailor or a nearby seamstress? 

At Airtasker, you can find many suit tailor experts who can help make your clothes look flawless, whether it’s a single or double-breasted suit. Post a task now to connect with these experts today easily.